Wool, Cashmere and Mohair: The Fiber Hierarchy

Among natural fibers, wool, cashmere, and mohair are often considered the pillars of luxury, prized for their warmth, softness, and natural resilience. Though they all come from animals and share similar care needs, their quality and characteristics vary dramatically, determined by origin, fiber diameter, and the refinement process behind them.

Wool

Wool, most often sourced from Merino sheep, remains one of the most versatile fibers in fashion. Its crimped structure naturally traps air, providing warmth while remaining breathable.

Fine Merino wool, typically 17–19 microns in diameter, offers a smooth, non-itch finish suitable for tailoring and knitwear.

High-end brands source from heritage producers in Australia and New Zealand, certified by organizations like The Woolmark Company to ensure traceability and responsible shearing practices.

Care tip: Wool fibers contain lanolin, a natural wax that resists dirt and moisture. Wash infrequently, air between wears, and use a wool detergent to preserve the fiber’s structure.

Cashmere

Cashmere comes from the undercoat of the Capra hircus laniger goat, primarily raised in Mongolia, Inner Mongolia (China), and northern India.

The hair is combed by hand once a year during spring molting, yielding only about 150 grams per goat, one reason for its exclusivity.

The finest cashmere fibers measure around 14–16 microns, producing a featherlight fabric that’s exceptionally soft yet insulating.

True luxury cashmere undergoes minimal mechanical treatment, allowing natural oils to preserve its feel and strength. Over time, authentic cashmere develops a surface bloom, a sign of softness, not wear.

Care tip: Avoid frequent washing. Gently hand wash in cold water or dry clean occasionally. After wearing, let the fabric rest to regain shape. Store folded, never hung.

Mohair

Mohair is derived from the Angora goat, native to Turkey but now largely raised in South Africa.

Known for its luster and elasticity, mohair adds a silken sheen and fluid drape to fabrics.

It’s naturally wrinkle-resistant and highly durable, making it ideal for tailored suits and statement knitwear.

Finer kid mohair, from the goat’s first shearing, is softer and more luxurious, often blended with silk or wool in designer pieces.

Care tip: Mohair sheds naturally; to maintain its finish, brush lightly with a soft garment brush and store in breathable fabric covers.

Understanding Quality and Price

Fiber	Source	Average Micron	Key Traits	Price Tier
Merino Wool	Sheep	17–19	Warm, breathable, resilient	$$$
Cashmere	Cashmere Goat	14–16	Ultra-soft, light, insulating	$$$$–$$$$$
Mohair	Angora Goat	23–38	Lustrous, durable, elastic	$$$

True luxury lies not only in the softness but in the longevity of these fibers. High-end brands favor naturally long, fine staples that resist pilling and hold dye uniformly, qualities that distinguish a couture-grade knit from mass-produced alternatives.

Provenance and Responsibility

Modern fashion demands transparency. Look for certifications such as:

• The Good Cashmere Standard (GCS) – ensuring animal welfare and sustainable grazing.
• Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) – promoting ethical treatment and land stewardship.
• Mohair Sustainable Standard (MSS) – verifying traceability and humane farming.

These standards reflect a growing truth: in contemporary luxury, beauty and ethics are inseparable.